“Our hair is our crown,” goes the saying, reflecting how deeply intertwined our hair is with our pride, identity, culture, and sense of self. But for millions of South Africans with Afro-textured hair, maintaining that crown has often come at the expense of hair health, as popular styling techniques risk aggravating hair loss and balding. However, a leading hair restoration expert notes that breakthrough approaches in hair transplants are providing solutions that can help reclaim your confidence.
Dr Kashmal Kalan, Medical Director at Alvi Armani South Africa, warns that while male and female pattern baldness (androgenetic alopecia) presents similarly across all ethnicities, there are specific challenges and causes of hair loss more prevalent in people with Afro-textured hair. For example, traction alopecia – often caused by tight braids and weaves – is particularly common among African women.
“Repeated tension and pulling on hair follicles from cornrows and braids along the frontal hairline region can eventually damage the area, resulting in hair loss. The other risk is that these hairstyles may camouflage the signs of natural hair loss until its more advanced, delaying effective intervention until much later,” he explains.
“We also see a lot of injuries due to chemical treatments. Straighteners and relaxers can burn the scalp if they are not applied correctly, and they also change the anatomical structure of the hair follicle each time they’re used. Over time, this repeated exposure can permanently destroy the follicle, negatively impacting its ability to produce healthy hair.”
Among men, the prevalence of very short hairstyles can also mask hair loss, preventing timely treatment. “For African men, keeping hair extremely short or completely shaved is a common cultural practice, which can likewise make it more difficult to notice progressive hair loss until it’s quite advanced.”
Preventing hair loss
While styling is often a matter of cultural expression and personal identity, small changes in technique and timing can reduce risk. To reduce the risk of hair loss, avoid excessive tension from tight hairstyles, limit chemical treatments, and allow your hair and scalp periods of rest without weaves or extensions.
The goal isn’t to discourage cultural hairstyling practices, but rather to promote awareness of how to protect your hair health while maintaining these important traditions, he says.
“These styling choices are deeply meaningful and personal. Hairstyles such as cornrows, braids, and weaves are an important part of people’s identities, so you do not need to avoid these styles completely. Instead, you simply need to understand how to minimise their impact.”
Treating Afro-textured hair
Dr Kalan emphasises that for those experiencing hair loss despite taking preventive measures, professional hair restoration can offer hope – especially given rapid advancements specifically in the treatment of Afro-textured hair over the past five years.
But when considering a hair transplant, several factors specific to Afro-textured hair require special attention. The tightly coiled nature of the follicles presents unique surgical challenges, requiring a modified or tailored approach from straight Caucasian hair for greatest success.
“While transplants are absolutely possible for all hair types, the procedure might need to be conducted slightly differently, such as limiting the number of grafts per session to ensure optimal follicle survival rates.”
Another crucial consideration is the higher risk of keloid scarring in African skin types. “At Alvi Armani, we address this through preliminary test patches. This allows us to assess an individual’s healing response before proceeding with the full procedure.”
Recovery and results timeframes remain fairly consistent across hair types, with full results typically visible between 12 and 18 months post-procedure, although individual variables like age, medical conditions, and lifestyle choices can influence healing and growth rates.
Debunking myths and finding the right care
Despite growing awareness and an increasing number of patients receiving treatment, common myths continue to circulate about hair transplants and Afro-textured hair. “One persistent misconception is that curly hair disqualifies you from being a transplant candidate. Another is that transplants are only for men. Neither is true.”
However, not everyone is a suitable candidate for transplantation. “Success depends on several factors, including a patient’s overall health, the type and extent of the hair loss, and the strength of the donor area. That’s why it’s key to seeking expert advice early. Many people wait until their hair loss is advanced before consulting a specialist, but earlier intervention often leads to better outcomes.”
For those considering hair restoration, Dr Kalan advises thorough research when selecting a clinic. “Look for practitioners with specific experience in Afro-textured hair. If a clinic claims there’s no difference between treating straight and curly hair, that’s an immediate red flag. These follicles require specialised expertise and techniques.
“Ultimately, understanding your hair type and its specific needs is the first step toward maintaining healthy hair or successfully restoring it. With the proper care and the right medical guidance, many forms of hair loss can be prevented or effectively treated,” he concludes.
